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Tuesday, June 7, 2011

Day 26 - 13.5 - Appalachian Trail Railroad Station - NY - Home

Sir Winton Churchill best captured my feelings today when he said,  "Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm."
 
Today, June 7th, is the last day of my hike for this Spring.  Sadly, I am officially off the trail.
 
The problem I had with the pain and numbness in my right thigh (Meralgian Paresthetica) has returned.  I had high hopes that the custom padded belt that Su Burdette helped me fashion would stave off the onset of the problem but that was not in the cards (Su - I can't thank you enough for your help).  The belt did its job for a period of time, but as I once again lost a fair amount of weight, and my pack began to press lower on my hips, the belt became less effective.  The decision to stop my hike was a difficult one, particularly since I was only 12 miles short of reaching Connecticut, but one that I have been wrestling with over several days.  I love being on the trail, meeting wonderful people and seeing America in its natural glory, but I must put my long term physical well being first. The episode from last year kept me in pain and discomfort for many months and I am not willing to pay that price or potenially an even higher price just to complete the trail this year.

I don't think this is the end of my AT hike, but rather a re-grouping point where I need to evaluate alternative approaches to achieving my goal.  There are still many options open to me so I have not thrown in the towel quite yet!

Well, enough of that.  Let's talk about the hike this last day and my trip home.

Mr. Sunshine and I knew it was going to be a scorcher today so we got up by 5:15am and were on the trail by 6:00.  With the low humidity and temps in the morning we were able to make fast mileage.  We reached Morgan Stewart Shelter by 7:20 and got a fresh supply of water from a hand pump well.  Very iron-like taste.  That is why we carry powered drink flavors, they help to mask the taste.

We reached Nuclear Lake about the time things started to get steamy.  I could not find my Deet (insect repellent) to save my life. It turned out that in my rush during the morning, I had wrapped it up in my tent.  Needless to say, I was a favorite target for the bugs today. 
 
The miles flew by and by 11:30, I reached the Telephone Pioneers Shelter.  Having made my decision to head home, I gave all my food supplies to Mr. Sunshine.  He decided to call it a day and let his feet rest.  I headed on down the mountain to the reknowned Appalachian Trail Raiload Train Station, one of many stops on a commuter rail line to New York City.  I guess I'm not the first to opt to come off the trail at this point. 
 
Telephone Pioneers Shelter
The walk to the train station was interesting but hot.  A lot of it involved walking through tall grass (amazingly no ticks - guess that Permetrin was working) and then through a long marsh where they are working on replacing the crude board crossing with a nice deck.  As I came out of the marsh, the Appalachian Trail Railroad Station appeared!

THE ROAD HOME - Much to my dismay, after reaching the station, I realized that trains only stop to pick up and discharge passengers on the weekends.  Seems there is always a catch that can mess up your plans, even on the AT.  I tried to get a ride to the next town but did not have any luck.  Thank goodness for my new Droid X phone that I bought just before setting out on the trail - I was able to ask it to locate a local taxi and in seconds, I had a ride.  I got to the next station down the line with only 5 minutes to spare. 
 
It took two hours to get to New York City and then the real fun began.  The commuter train pulled into Grand Central but I needed to get to Penn Station to catch the Amtrak train that would carry me to Maryland.  As luck would have it, I arrived in Grand Central right at the outset of rush hour so it was bedlam and no easy task to maneuver to Penn Station when I had no idea where I was going! 
 
Grand Central has tunnels coming from all directions and there were huge masses of people rushing about.  I asked a couple of people how to walk to Penn Station and they looked at me like I was crazy.  Everyone told me to hop the shuttle (subway) and then make a transfer.  Thinking, "OK, here goes nothing," I headed toward the shuttle.  Fortunately, I met a local at the fare card machine who offered to help me get to the Amtrak ticket office at Penn Station.  Even when we got to Penn Station, there seemed to be tunnels in all directions and barely any signs.  The place was a mad house.  My trail angel (who would have thought, an angel in NYC) stayed with me all the way to the ticket office!  I don't think I would have made it without his help.  Hikers will tell you, when you want something, you probably won't get it but when you need something, the trail will provide.  My trail luck was still with me. 
 
As we pulled out of NYC I was finally able to relax and catch up on my e-mail.  Sandy was there to pick me up at the Shady Grove subway station and we were home by 10:30pm.  Not bad.  Traveling from the AT just 12 miles from the Connecticut border to home in just nine hours.

Hot meal, long shower and a soft bed - a good end to a tough day.  Tomorrow starts my recovery and evaluation of how to conquer or at least compensate for this problem.

Thanks to all for the love and support you have given me - it is deeply appreciated.

Monday, June 6, 2011

Day 25 Monday June 6th. - 16.6 Miles to Stealth Camp near NY 52

I have never thought of deer as being clumsy, but over the last several days I have come to realize that the New York deer may need some lessons in being graceful.   Last night, around dusk, I heard from in my tent a lot of cracking of twigs and rustling of leaves.  The intensity of the sound made be think that possibly a bear was snooping around camp.  Wrong - out walks a deer who stares at our tents like they were alien beings.  Days earlier on Bear Mountain as I came around a cliff side on a narrow ledge, a deer jumped out from a little ledge to my right not more than four feet in front of me and tumbled down the mountain.  He was alright after he shook off the initial fall.

Was another hot and steamy day.  Thank goodness our starting point had nice clean potable water.  Sure makes a difference in taste.  Our first climb of the day brought us to Shenandoah mountain which has the notable feature of a US flag painted on the rock surface in honor of 9/11.  It was a great spot for a lunch break.





Lunch on Shenandoah Mountain













As the temp's continued to climb we arrived at RPH Shelter.  Nice facility.  Cinder block walls, bunks, hand pump and very few flying bugs.  Time for a hiker nap.  As the weather get hotter, many hikers will take several hours off during the mid day to rest and continue to hike after 3pm when the sun starts to decline.
 RPH - Looks nice - but has only three walls.

Tough haul out of RPH.  The mountain kind of made us feel like returning to the shelter and taking a longer nap.  The one good thing was when we reached NY 52 there was a deli waiting for us just .4 miles down the road.  Nothing like a nice hot pizza to re-energize the body.

We hiked another 40 minutes after dinner and settled for a spot just off the trail.  Unfortunately the interstate was about a mile away, so we were serenaded all night long with the sounds of big rig trucks cruising the highway.

Sunday, June 5, 2011

Day 24 – 15 miles - Clarence Fahnestock Memorial State Park

 Hurray for Trudy the trail angel.  We woke up this morning to the smell of warm waffles.  Our laundry was dried, folded, stacked and ready for us to grab and go.  We had a lively conversation around the breakfast table and then Trudy drove us from West Point back to the trail to drop us where we left off yesterday.  What a wonderful gesture and wonderful person!
One of the many beautiful vistas on the AT
First milestone of the day, we crossed the Hudson River over Bear Mountain Bridge.  It was spectacular, a breathtaking panorama.  We could see Fort Montgomery and Bear Mountain looming over us as we crossed.  Unfortunately, on the other side of bridge, as is the case whenever you leave a town, we had to pay the price we always pay – climbing altitude to get back up the mountain ridge.

New York is an interesting place (aren’t all the stops on this journey?), it seems that as you reach many of the road crossings, if you pay close attention and you look left or right, you’ll probably see a deli!  In our case, after hiking about 8 miles, we reached a road crossing at lunch time.  There we found a gas station called the Appalachian CafĂ© and inside was a full deli that made hot and cold sandwiches.  What a treat to be able to sit down to lunch at a picnic table and have a fresh hot chicken sandwich and a cold green tea!

As I mentioned yesterday, one of the typical highlights of this leg of the hike is visiting Graymoor Monastery, home of Franciscan Friars.  The monastery has welcomed AT hikers for decades.  In the past, you could stay in the rectory building and be treated to a sumptuous meal but nowadays, you are offered the ball field as a place to pitch your tent and a picnic pavilion where you can eat.  Mr. Sunshine and I determined that visiting the monastery was going to take us a mile out of our way so we bypassed it.  We also decided to skip the Trailside Wildlife Refuge since we got there at 9am and it didn’t open until 10.  It is basically a petting zoo so no big deal.  Plenty of other sites to see!

As we pushed deeper into the woods, the wind died and we became the target of every mosquito and black fly in the area.  At the end of the day, we both looked like pin cushions and I think we’ll be eating dinner inside our tents to avoid the bugs.

Tonight we are camping at a State Park.  At least this place has a potable water well down by the road. At our current rate, we hope to be in Connecticut in 3 days.  The states are speeding by.